Getting there

My first impression actually came before we left home. Since this is in January temperatures reached a whooping -32ºC! People were dying. My first impression after touching down was not unexpected really, green military like uniforms all over telling us where to go. Never mind that the sign stickers said to go somewhere else. We did however end up in passport control so all was fine. The next was a quick trip to the loo. Uck...some places in the world seem to have water shortage, not Moscow, they have sewer problems it seemed. The toilet was overflowing of poop and piss, nice start I were thinking to myself.

It really picked up from there, our pre filled out visitors forms (Filled out by the Russian embassy in Oslo) were apparently not worth a damned thing. We were told to fill out new ones, at least I think that's what they told us because I really only understood the pointing and not the babble.

Well through passport check we were as Norwegians waved through. Would they have if they knew my wife is American? On to the hotel. We had prearranged pickup from private people costing us $50. Expensive for Russia, but worth it as it safely took us straight to the hotel and she helped us with the check in. They are really nice and honest these people I think to myself. An impression I quickly loose when I take the little yellow minibus for the first time.

The hotel and surrounding area

The hotel we used was the Izmailovo Gamma-delta. This is a very good budget hotel located 5 minutes away from the metro station Partizanskaya. (This station used be called Izmaylovskaya Park, check for updated metro map) The hotel is part of a 5 building complex built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics. The gamma-Delta is by far the classiest of the 4 hotels. The other three; Alfa, Delta & Vega are considerably more run down according to rumor. The price varies from room type to room type, as do the standard and grade of remodeling. 1st class rooms are remodeled and are in good condition. The rest are good enough after general European budget standards. For the price we payed, I'd say better even. Plus the hotel hosts 24h bars and snack bars plus several descent restaurants that actually are cheap. For more info on the hotel look at their own website, which also offer online booking with a 15% discount. That seems to be cheaper than any other booking agent can provide. The site is in English as well as Russian language.

Since the hotel is part of the Olympic village from the 1980 games there is still signs of that on the hotel. They have the Olympic colors on top and in the area right by the side there is some sort of tourist area from then. That area has now turned into a market place on weekends. This market is called the Vernisazh market and is supposedly the biggest in Moscow. Don't know really but I am tempted to believe it. The initial market is not so big, and it is mostly arts and crafts and used old stuff. You do find new items too, but be aware, not everything is as cheap as it seems. But they almost expect you to bargain, and if you don't want to buy they run after you to make better and better offers. Basically I found that the easiest way to bargain was to show little interest. In the area behind is also some sort of market, not sure what they all sell there, but I imagine just about everything. I did see clothes and vegetables. I took a walk one day around this vast market area and spend 2 hours just walking the outside of it. It is enormous.

Getting around

From the Gamma-Delta to the Partizanskaya metro station there is about 5 minutes. From there most of Moscow can be reached. Moscow also have an vast system of little yellow mini buses, regular busses, electric busses and trams. These are very cheap, although the drivers of the mini buses gladly stiff you for some money much like the taxi drivers. A Muscovite would pay around 50-60 Rub for a ride with a taxi, while as tourist you can expect to pay closer to 400. You should however learn the bus system. The minibuses have a weird pricing system that I don't quite understand. But I believe it's supposed to cost 15 or 20 Rub depending on the distance traveled. The big buses cost 15. The oddest thing about buses in Moscow are the fact that they don't have stop buttons. You have to tell the driver (on the minibuses) when you want to get off. Good luck with that. I got stuck in one of them for about 30 minutes first time I took it. A couple of lessons I learned from that; First, make sure you tell the driver where you want to go as you pay him and make sure he understands. He will then let you off where you are going. Second, when you need help, turn to the younger generation, they know English. They might be no good at it (how is your Spanish/German/French?) and refuse to talk. But usually someone will be able to help. Russians are good at stepping up if you look desperate. On the big buses you just go to the door and hope for the best. But be aware, the driver will let everyone entering the bus on before he opens the door for exit's. This to prevent people sneaking a free ride. The metro also cost 15 Rub. At every station metro maps are posted with both Cyrillic and roman letters, but mind the fact that they do not post roman letters anywhere else. The best tip to make it easier to navigate Moscow is to learn their alphabet.